Home safely

After a two hour delay in Maui we are home safely in Chicago - land of the thunderstorms and cold weather :)

Maui days 4 and 5

How lucky we were to end this remarkable trip in Maui. We are at the airport now to catch our flight back to Chicago (apparently it's finally warm there now) and send off one last blog post before we leave.

We had a relaxed morning yesterday, getting up, finding a great, cheap bagel and schmear (Simon), and watching the U.S. Men's National Team beat the Netherlands in soccer. Then, our day really took off as we headed back to Lahaina town for our surf lesson with Josh at the Royal Hawaiian Surf Academy. 

As Erika puts it, we didn't just have a surf lesson, but we actually learned to surf. We were both pretty apprehensive before the lesson and made it our modest goals to catch one wave before the morning was up. After some excellent and concise tutelage on the sand, we both trudged and then paddled into the water and caught (and stood up on) our first waves! Our instructor made it easy, explaining how to carefully navigate between lying down and standing on the board. We even both moved past the beginner waves and headed for deeper water and larger waves as the two (but actually three) hour lesson went on. Overall, we were able to stand up on about 2/3 of the waves we tried, which we didn't expect, but really enjoyed!

After the long surf session we drove back to our hotel, got some lunch, and then hit the beach for the afternoon. We spent time under the sun, in the ocean, and also in the pool.

In the early evening we went down to the Royal Lahaina Luau on the resort grounds and loved it. The food was excellent (that pork, though!), the drinks were great and the performance was even better than we thought. The dancing was excellent and the fire spinning was very impressive. The show lasted for several hours and then we spent time walking around the resort for the last time. 

This morning we got up and I watched the Champions League Final (woo Barcelona!) while Erika admirably went to a one on one cardio barre training session. Then, we packed up, checked out, spent a bit more time on the beach, and headed to a final lunch in, and then walked around, Lahaina Town. 

We had a tremendous trip. Thank you to all of our friends and family for their generous donations and support, which made our honeymoon possible! We love you all and can't wait to share our fun experiences with you.

-Erika and Simon

Maui Days 2 and 3

Yesterday afternoon we headed in to Lahaina Town after getting back from our snorkeling trip. We drove the four miles down, parked, and then walked around the old port district for an hour and a half.

We went back to the hotel for a Pilates class for Erika, and a run for me. Then we went back into Lahaina for a great seaside dinner at Lahaina Fish Co.

This morning we got up early and drove two hours to Haleakala National Park. The last forty minutes was almost completely uphill. After we entered the park we continued up from 7,200 to 9,800 feet to the Haleakala Crater visitor's center. First, we went up to the summit at 10,027 feet and got amazing views all the way to Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa on the big island. 

 

Then we went back down the visitor's center and to the Shifting Sands trail head. From there we went down 1,400 feet into the Haleakala Crater over 2.5 miles. The landscape was like nothing that we had ever seen. It was the closest we would get to walking on Mars, and it was closer to the Grand Canyon than anything else we had seen in Hawaii. 

Finally, we took more time climbing the 2.5 miles and 1,400 feet out of the canyon and afterwards, exhausted, started the long drive back to Lahaina.

Now we are back at the hotel getting some yoga and walking in (as if I didn't get enough) before dinner. 

Maui Day 1

The Yesterday morning Erika and I got up early and drove to the airport for our quick flight to Maui. We met several Ironman competitors at the airport and talked to one of them before getting in the flight. After we landed, we picked up our car and then drove to the sunny, west side of the island to Lahaina. 

Acter checking in we changed and immediately headed for the beach. We got a beachfront lunch and then dropped out bags, and ourselves, on a couple of beach chairs for a restful afternoon of reading, jumping waves, and enjoying the pool. 

In the late afternoon we had our photo session with the resort's photographer and then walked all the way around the property. For dinner we hit the Royal Ocean Terrace and got prime seats outside to watch the sunset. We had our favorite Mai Tais of the trip and delicious dinners. Righty before the sunset, we also got an impromptu, mini Luau on the terrace steps. 

Afterwards we played a few rounds of bocce and shuffleboard, had some excellent ice cream for dessert at the tesort's ice cream parlor, and walked further around the hotel, enjoying stars on a perfectly clear night. From our balcony we had a stunning view of the ocean to our right, and the West Maui Mountains, with the moon overhead, to our left. 

We got up early this morning to drive to Lihei, on the south of Maui, for our snorkeling trip with Redline Rafting. Our first stop on the boat was the Molokini island crater. The reef around the crater was beautiful - the most vivid ocean colors either of us had ever seen - and we saw a shark, an octopus, and countless colorful fish and coral formations. We circled to the back of the island and saw another shark and also an eel. 

At our next stop we were met by a pod of dolphins who, surprisingly, swam right up to us in the water and the stayed around our boat for some time. 

Finally, we headed closer to shore and found an amazing spot where we snorkels with and over five large sea turtles. The turtles, too, were not shy about coming up next to our small group, and they regularly popped up for air between us. It was a tremendous experience, and the crew, Seth and Kelly, were hilarious and really knowledgeable. 

Now we are back at our hotel to shower off before heading in to Lahaina town. Check back soon.   

Big Island - Days 2 and 3!

Yesterday Erika and I headed up the coast of the Big Island, north to Pololu Point. After a long and winding drive over lava flows, through narrow, one-way bridges, past a port, and into a surprisingly lush jungle we got to our destination - the head of the trail. From there we descended down a mile long hike down to the remarkable black sand beach. We walked around the sand and took great photos and video before beginning the long hike back up to the trailhead where we parked. We emerged sweaty but triumphant. 

After that we drove back to our hotel in Kona, stopping at a rather uninspiring lunch spot (our first miss of the trip). There, we quickly changed into long pants and long sleeve shirts and then drove to meet our guide and group for our Mauna Kea Summit and Stars tour. 

Our guide, Brett, introduced himself and answered all of our questions about volcanoes and lava flows as we drove to pick up other more, ahem, needy guests. Then we turned up the center of the island and began our ascent up Mauna Kea. We stopped at an old sheep-herding compound to enjoy a really delicious dinner and some hot tea, and also to get used to the altitude - at that point 6,000 feet. 

After dinner and acclimation we donned our parkas, turned on the four wheel drive, and climbed to the visitors' center at 9,000 feet. We didn't stop there, though, traversing a treacherous, steep, unpaved road that would challenge even the Ford Fiesta. 

We got up to the summit and saw the world class telescopes at nearly 14,000 feet about twenty five minutes before sunset and walked around the summit (freezing our faces off) until seeing a truly spectacular sunset above the clouds. 

Being up there was amazing. All we could see around us were he telescopes on Mauna Kea, the thick clouds below us, and the peak of Mauna Loa (a bigger but shorter volcano) in the distance. 

After getting our fill of the heights and the sunset we descended to 12,000 feet where our guide, Brett, parked the car, set up his powerful telescope, and handed out very necessary hot chocolate and brownies for dessert. We warned our throats and stomachs before he taught us about celestial navigation. He pointed out the North Star, Polaris, and then showed us the Line of Ecliptic. We saw the Big and Little Dippers, Gemini, the Southern Cross, Alpha and Beta Centauri, and many other stars and star systems. 

Then, the real fun began: Brett trained his telescope on Venus and we got great views of Venus in its half phase. Then he turned the scope to Jupiter and we saw, for the very first time, Jupiter. Not just as a blur, but with its stripes and four of its moons, the Gallileo moons, arranged in a perfect line diagonally across and beside the massive planet. After geeking out about Jupiter and taking a second and third turn at the telescope Brett trained the scope on Saturn, the same sight that made me so excited about astronomy several years ago, and we were able to see the ringed planet in all of its glory, of course with its rings. Finally, we got a great up close view of the craters and surface of the moon. Then we descended down the mountain, dropped off our, ahem, needy guests, and headed back home at 11:30pm. 

After a late night we got an early start today, heading to Hilo on the opposite side of the island. On the way we stopped at Akaka and Rainbow Falls. Akaka Falls turned out to be a remarkable patch of rainforest. We arrived as it opened, headed down the beautiful treehouse-esque path, and took in the grandeur of the falls. 

We then stopped at Rainbow Falls before unfortunately finding out our helicopter  volcano safari was cancelled because of the weather. Undeterred, we drove up to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. 

We plotted our course at the visitor center and started by seeing the steam vents and also getting up close to the active Kilauea Caldera and Crater, which has been erupting continuously since 1983. The steam was powerful and the caldera was massive, and the combination of both took our breath away. 

Next, we continued to the Jaggar Museum and its lookout point, getting great views into the active crater itself. 

After stopping for a quick lunch, we visited and hiked down the Thurston Lava Tube, created when lava flowed over itself out of an eruption of Mauna Loa over 500 years ago. 

Then we drove down past several awesome lava flows from the 1950s through 1970s, all from Mauna Loa and all leaving a wide trail of destruction and, later, rebirth in their wake. The closer we got to the coast the wider the destruction fields seemed to be. 

We finally got down to the lava arch, created over years of erosion as waves have battered lava flows that reached and cooled in the ocean. 

We climbed back through the sulphuric and rain cloud mix back to the Jaggar Museum before finally leaving the park and beginning the long drive back to our hotel. Finally, we concluded the night with another pizza tasting at Kona Brewing Company. Again, our choices were on the mark - the pizza was superb. 

Kona Day 1

Erika and I landed in Kona airport earlier today, though it's not like any airport we've ever seen before. We deplaned down a ramp to the runway and then walked to the gate - an open but partially covered outdoor pavilion with a tiki hut on top. The whole airport - security, baggage claim, and check-in - is like this. 

We then picked up our rental car (alas, not a Ford Fiesta) and then drove to our hotel. By this point we were sufficiently famished but we had places to be so we asked the concier, Vahn, for his recommendation. Lucky we did, because he steered us to a true hole in the wall joint twenty minutes to the south.

We were, admittedly, skeptical when we pulled up to Big Jake's BBQ. The restaurant shares a building with Da Poke Shack (poke is a type of raw fish - who knew?) and it consists of an order window and three outdoor picnic tables. We walked up to the counter and Jakw, pegging us correctly as newcomers, ordered Da Sampler Plate for us: beef brisket, pulled pork, and tied for the best ribs we have ever had. The meat is smoked using local mesquite wood, infused with macadamia nuts, papaya, and pineapple. 

We wolfed if down (a little too quickly), thanked Jake for the meal, and then drove back north a bit to Greenwell a Farms Coffee Plantation. We took a tour of the facility, learned about how Kona Coffee is made, and sampled a lot of delicious brews. Our favorites were the Big City Roast and the Macadamia Nut Roast. 

After that we extended our day a bit and headed further south to the Place of Refuge, a remarkable and beautifully preserved ancient Hawaiian sanctuary in the edges of a dark volcanic beach. 

Finally, we drive back to the hotel and hit the pool for a restful hour. Now we are heading to dinner at the Kona Brewing Company. 

Check back later on. Happy Birthday, Frank!!!

Kauai Day 3

Yesterday we woke up and I headed to the gym while Erika went to morning yoga on the beach. Afterwards we unwound at the beach and the pool at the resort. 

After lunch we drove to Port Allen Marina for our Na Pali Sunset Dinner Cruise with Kauai Sea Tours. After checking in at 2pm (strangely early for a dinner cruise) we got on the boat and hopped up to the top deck. Our crew was fantastic - led by Captain Adam - who steered us through the chop and told us all about the sights and history of Kauai and the Na Pali Coast. On the way up the coast, especially, we faced some intense waves and got some refreshing (aggressive) splashes. 

The food on the boat was excellent and we cruised on the ship in style with many Mai Tais and Hawaiian juices. 

We went all the way up the coast and got to Ke'e beach, which is where we hiked two days ago, meaning we've circumnavigated the whole island by car, boat, and foot. We got up and down the coast over four and a half hours and finally got back to the marina after the sunset. 

This morning we woke up early to pack and then drive to the airport where we took the world's shortest flight from Lihue back to Honolulu. Now we are in the airport waiting for our flight to Kona on the big island. 

Kauai days 1 and 2

Erika and I had one of the best days ever today, but first, yesterday.

We flew out of Honolulu in the mid-morning after packing our bags and feasting on some delicious yogurt parfaits. 

After landing in Lihue, Kauai, we picked up our Ford Fiesta (more on this stellar chariot to come) and drove to the Sheraton Kauai Resort (where we are staying on points :)) They quickly upgraded these two Gold Status honeymooners (thanks Starwood, thanks Bain) into a great room and then we headed down to the beach before the rain rolled in. 

We got a Hawaiian pizza for lunch and enjoyed that, and two Mai Tais, before jumping into the surf. The beach here slopes pretty dramatically and the waves were no slouches, so we had a fun and entertaining time jumping over expected and unexpected waves. After a while we retreated to the hot tub and pool for some distance swim/floating/breath holding contests. 

For dinner we got recommendations from the stellar concier, Ryan (more from him later) and went to Keoki's, where Erika had a duo of local fresh fish while I had a comparable duo of local fresh meat. 

This morning we got up early to drive to the airport helicopter terminal. We arrived at the Blue Hawaiian terminal, registered, and then hopped in for our flight over and through Kauai with our pilot, Brad.

This was a fantastic experience - we had no airsickness or fears of heights (big win!) and were able to see parts of the island completely inaccessible by any other means. Our pilot told us about the history and makeup of the island and flew us through every interesting site he could think of: Waimea Canyon, the hundreds of waterfalls on the island including the weeping wall, Jurassic Falls, and by the Na Pali Coast. We had two and three passes everywhere. 

After the helicopter tour we continued along the south east coast per Ryan's suggestion and stopped at the Wailua and Opeeaka Falls - two more spoils to see in Kauai. 

Then we descended down a very, very steep semi-paved road to the Fern Grotto and to our surprising lunch spot - Chef George of Da Jungle's food truck. I had a delicious lamb gyro and Erika had excellent falafel from George and his trusty sidekick, while wild goats and chickens roamed the area. His food fueled us later on. 

After lunch the Fiesta proved its worth, muscling us out of the deep jungle and back onto two-lane roads (for now). Who needs a jeep, Budget rental agent?!

Once clear of the jungle we set a course for the North shore and drove through tiny towns - Kapaa, Kupio, Anahola, and  Hanalei - and over many one lane bridges until we got to Ke'e Beach, where the road literally ended. Not satisfied with this beach, we hiked the Halalau trail - two miles up and down the Na Pali Coast - until we reached the Hanakapi'ai Beach. Don't swim there, for risk of death. 

At this point we turned around and hiked two miles back in record time, before driving down the north, east, and then southern shore of Kauai to get back to our hotel in Poipu. 

For dinner, Erika found Puka Dogs, where we enjoyed PHENOMENAL Hawaiian style hot dogs, loaded up with mango and Papaya relish, and Hawaiian mustard. The Puka dog made me really happy and I bought a shirt to commemorate today. 

We thought we capped our day off really well with delicious gelato next door, but we ended up stumbling into the end of a luau at our hotel, complete with fire-spinners and Tahitian dancing. 

Now we are enjoying some complimentary champagne from the resort to congratulate us on getting series - you can see why this was one of the best days ever!

- Simon and Erika 

Honolulu Day 2

We had a packed and very diverse first full day in Honolulu. We had a good breakfast early in the morning before driving out to Pearl Harbor. Once there, we met a very friendly ranger who guided us through the maze of different lines. 

First, we took the shuttle to the USS Missouri and toured the battleship that hosted the Japanese surrender ceremony that concluded World War II. It's now moored for good in Battleship Row, exactly where its sisters ships were maimed and sunk in the attack on Pearl Harbor. The ship was massive and we walked all around it, on it, and within it. We saw the exact spot where the surrender documents were signed, climbed up to the navigation bridge, and then went belowdecks to see a moving exhibit on farewell letters from Kamikaze pilots to their families. 

Next, we took the shuttle to its next stop, the Air museum. There, we saw World War II aircraft, learned more about the war efforts in the Pacific, and we're lucky enough to meet a survivor from the Decemeber 7 attacks. We finished our visit here by seeing the restoration efforts of dozens of volunteers to restore many rusted (or worse!) aircraft. 

We took the shuttle back to the main complex, got a quick bite, and then headed to see the USS Bowfin, a submarine which got rhe nickname the Pear Harbor Avenger because of its military success in the war. We were able to go down within every compartment of the submarine and get a tremendous perspective of how the crew lived, and also appreciate the extreme danger they lived in each moment. 

Our visit concluded in the early afternoon when we took the ferry to the USS Arizona memorial. It is a white, somber platform straddling the sunken wreck of the Arizona, which became a tomb for the hundreds of crew within. The ship continues to leak oil, 71 years after its sinking, and the area smells like it. The oil comes up almost randomly, bubbling to the surface in small spots and then extending out in bright, rainbow rings. 

We were lucky to hear a moving speech from a Naval veteran turned park ranger and then paid our respects to the names of the dead on the wall within the platform. Finally, we took the ferry back. 

In the afternoon we drove to the Diamond Head Crater hiked up to the top of the crater walls up the man-made Fire road. After the Grand Canyon, and with little weight to carry with us, we made really good time and were able to enjoy fantastic views down into Honolulu and also of the rest of southern O'ahu. 

Finally, in the evening we decided to drive out to the North Shore of the island after getting a dinner tip from the Concier. After rumbling through Honolulu traffic we escaped the city and peeled off north through the rolling hills and then flat plains of central O'ahu. We arrived to the north shore as the sun set and then had a delicious dinner at Haleiwa Joe's. 

This morning we were greeted with a beautiful sunny day and now, we're up for a new day and in the airport about to board or flight to Lihue in Kauai. We'll check in later on.

-Erika and Simon

Honolulu!

We've made it to our first stop, Honolulu. And now Erika is getting ready for dinner which gives me a chance to update the blog. 

After an early but uneventful trip to he airport and then a long flight, we picked up our rental car and drove in to our hotel by 1:30PM. We immediately changed and headed to Waikiki Beach. 

Our hotel, the Sheraton Princess, is great and we have a tremendous view of Waikiki Beach to our left, other hotels to our right, and the classic but, thankfully, short Moana Surfrider Hotel just in front of us. 

As I type this, distant but distinct old, relaxing Hawaiian music warbles its way up to our deck. The whole scene is of a place lost in time; indeed, if not for the modern cars on the streets below, our little slice of Honolulu looks exactly as it did fifty years ago. 

We're off to dinner now but are heading to Pearl Harbor and then hiking tomorrow. 

- Simon and Erika