Kona Day 1

Erika and I landed in Kona airport earlier today, though it's not like any airport we've ever seen before. We deplaned down a ramp to the runway and then walked to the gate - an open but partially covered outdoor pavilion with a tiki hut on top. The whole airport - security, baggage claim, and check-in - is like this. 

We then picked up our rental car (alas, not a Ford Fiesta) and then drove to our hotel. By this point we were sufficiently famished but we had places to be so we asked the concier, Vahn, for his recommendation. Lucky we did, because he steered us to a true hole in the wall joint twenty minutes to the south.

We were, admittedly, skeptical when we pulled up to Big Jake's BBQ. The restaurant shares a building with Da Poke Shack (poke is a type of raw fish - who knew?) and it consists of an order window and three outdoor picnic tables. We walked up to the counter and Jakw, pegging us correctly as newcomers, ordered Da Sampler Plate for us: beef brisket, pulled pork, and tied for the best ribs we have ever had. The meat is smoked using local mesquite wood, infused with macadamia nuts, papaya, and pineapple. 

We wolfed if down (a little too quickly), thanked Jake for the meal, and then drove back north a bit to Greenwell a Farms Coffee Plantation. We took a tour of the facility, learned about how Kona Coffee is made, and sampled a lot of delicious brews. Our favorites were the Big City Roast and the Macadamia Nut Roast. 

After that we extended our day a bit and headed further south to the Place of Refuge, a remarkable and beautifully preserved ancient Hawaiian sanctuary in the edges of a dark volcanic beach. 

Finally, we drive back to the hotel and hit the pool for a restful hour. Now we are heading to dinner at the Kona Brewing Company. 

Check back later on. Happy Birthday, Frank!!!

Kauai Day 3

Yesterday we woke up and I headed to the gym while Erika went to morning yoga on the beach. Afterwards we unwound at the beach and the pool at the resort. 

After lunch we drove to Port Allen Marina for our Na Pali Sunset Dinner Cruise with Kauai Sea Tours. After checking in at 2pm (strangely early for a dinner cruise) we got on the boat and hopped up to the top deck. Our crew was fantastic - led by Captain Adam - who steered us through the chop and told us all about the sights and history of Kauai and the Na Pali Coast. On the way up the coast, especially, we faced some intense waves and got some refreshing (aggressive) splashes. 

The food on the boat was excellent and we cruised on the ship in style with many Mai Tais and Hawaiian juices. 

We went all the way up the coast and got to Ke'e beach, which is where we hiked two days ago, meaning we've circumnavigated the whole island by car, boat, and foot. We got up and down the coast over four and a half hours and finally got back to the marina after the sunset. 

This morning we woke up early to pack and then drive to the airport where we took the world's shortest flight from Lihue back to Honolulu. Now we are in the airport waiting for our flight to Kona on the big island. 

Kauai days 1 and 2

Erika and I had one of the best days ever today, but first, yesterday.

We flew out of Honolulu in the mid-morning after packing our bags and feasting on some delicious yogurt parfaits. 

After landing in Lihue, Kauai, we picked up our Ford Fiesta (more on this stellar chariot to come) and drove to the Sheraton Kauai Resort (where we are staying on points :)) They quickly upgraded these two Gold Status honeymooners (thanks Starwood, thanks Bain) into a great room and then we headed down to the beach before the rain rolled in. 

We got a Hawaiian pizza for lunch and enjoyed that, and two Mai Tais, before jumping into the surf. The beach here slopes pretty dramatically and the waves were no slouches, so we had a fun and entertaining time jumping over expected and unexpected waves. After a while we retreated to the hot tub and pool for some distance swim/floating/breath holding contests. 

For dinner we got recommendations from the stellar concier, Ryan (more from him later) and went to Keoki's, where Erika had a duo of local fresh fish while I had a comparable duo of local fresh meat. 

This morning we got up early to drive to the airport helicopter terminal. We arrived at the Blue Hawaiian terminal, registered, and then hopped in for our flight over and through Kauai with our pilot, Brad.

This was a fantastic experience - we had no airsickness or fears of heights (big win!) and were able to see parts of the island completely inaccessible by any other means. Our pilot told us about the history and makeup of the island and flew us through every interesting site he could think of: Waimea Canyon, the hundreds of waterfalls on the island including the weeping wall, Jurassic Falls, and by the Na Pali Coast. We had two and three passes everywhere. 

After the helicopter tour we continued along the south east coast per Ryan's suggestion and stopped at the Wailua and Opeeaka Falls - two more spoils to see in Kauai. 

Then we descended down a very, very steep semi-paved road to the Fern Grotto and to our surprising lunch spot - Chef George of Da Jungle's food truck. I had a delicious lamb gyro and Erika had excellent falafel from George and his trusty sidekick, while wild goats and chickens roamed the area. His food fueled us later on. 

After lunch the Fiesta proved its worth, muscling us out of the deep jungle and back onto two-lane roads (for now). Who needs a jeep, Budget rental agent?!

Once clear of the jungle we set a course for the North shore and drove through tiny towns - Kapaa, Kupio, Anahola, and  Hanalei - and over many one lane bridges until we got to Ke'e Beach, where the road literally ended. Not satisfied with this beach, we hiked the Halalau trail - two miles up and down the Na Pali Coast - until we reached the Hanakapi'ai Beach. Don't swim there, for risk of death. 

At this point we turned around and hiked two miles back in record time, before driving down the north, east, and then southern shore of Kauai to get back to our hotel in Poipu. 

For dinner, Erika found Puka Dogs, where we enjoyed PHENOMENAL Hawaiian style hot dogs, loaded up with mango and Papaya relish, and Hawaiian mustard. The Puka dog made me really happy and I bought a shirt to commemorate today. 

We thought we capped our day off really well with delicious gelato next door, but we ended up stumbling into the end of a luau at our hotel, complete with fire-spinners and Tahitian dancing. 

Now we are enjoying some complimentary champagne from the resort to congratulate us on getting series - you can see why this was one of the best days ever!

- Simon and Erika 

Honolulu Day 2

We had a packed and very diverse first full day in Honolulu. We had a good breakfast early in the morning before driving out to Pearl Harbor. Once there, we met a very friendly ranger who guided us through the maze of different lines. 

First, we took the shuttle to the USS Missouri and toured the battleship that hosted the Japanese surrender ceremony that concluded World War II. It's now moored for good in Battleship Row, exactly where its sisters ships were maimed and sunk in the attack on Pearl Harbor. The ship was massive and we walked all around it, on it, and within it. We saw the exact spot where the surrender documents were signed, climbed up to the navigation bridge, and then went belowdecks to see a moving exhibit on farewell letters from Kamikaze pilots to their families. 

Next, we took the shuttle to its next stop, the Air museum. There, we saw World War II aircraft, learned more about the war efforts in the Pacific, and we're lucky enough to meet a survivor from the Decemeber 7 attacks. We finished our visit here by seeing the restoration efforts of dozens of volunteers to restore many rusted (or worse!) aircraft. 

We took the shuttle back to the main complex, got a quick bite, and then headed to see the USS Bowfin, a submarine which got rhe nickname the Pear Harbor Avenger because of its military success in the war. We were able to go down within every compartment of the submarine and get a tremendous perspective of how the crew lived, and also appreciate the extreme danger they lived in each moment. 

Our visit concluded in the early afternoon when we took the ferry to the USS Arizona memorial. It is a white, somber platform straddling the sunken wreck of the Arizona, which became a tomb for the hundreds of crew within. The ship continues to leak oil, 71 years after its sinking, and the area smells like it. The oil comes up almost randomly, bubbling to the surface in small spots and then extending out in bright, rainbow rings. 

We were lucky to hear a moving speech from a Naval veteran turned park ranger and then paid our respects to the names of the dead on the wall within the platform. Finally, we took the ferry back. 

In the afternoon we drove to the Diamond Head Crater hiked up to the top of the crater walls up the man-made Fire road. After the Grand Canyon, and with little weight to carry with us, we made really good time and were able to enjoy fantastic views down into Honolulu and also of the rest of southern O'ahu. 

Finally, in the evening we decided to drive out to the North Shore of the island after getting a dinner tip from the Concier. After rumbling through Honolulu traffic we escaped the city and peeled off north through the rolling hills and then flat plains of central O'ahu. We arrived to the north shore as the sun set and then had a delicious dinner at Haleiwa Joe's. 

This morning we were greeted with a beautiful sunny day and now, we're up for a new day and in the airport about to board or flight to Lihue in Kauai. We'll check in later on.

-Erika and Simon

Honolulu!

We've made it to our first stop, Honolulu. And now Erika is getting ready for dinner which gives me a chance to update the blog. 

After an early but uneventful trip to he airport and then a long flight, we picked up our rental car and drove in to our hotel by 1:30PM. We immediately changed and headed to Waikiki Beach. 

Our hotel, the Sheraton Princess, is great and we have a tremendous view of Waikiki Beach to our left, other hotels to our right, and the classic but, thankfully, short Moana Surfrider Hotel just in front of us. 

As I type this, distant but distinct old, relaxing Hawaiian music warbles its way up to our deck. The whole scene is of a place lost in time; indeed, if not for the modern cars on the streets below, our little slice of Honolulu looks exactly as it did fifty years ago. 

We're off to dinner now but are heading to Pearl Harbor and then hiking tomorrow. 

- Simon and Erika